Food review: Hank, Broadbeach

Shop 12, 15 Victoria Avenue, Broadbeach Ph: 07 5539 0883

Broadbeach’s newest restaurant, Hank, is a serious step into innovative cuisine.

After his resounding success with Spanish tapas at Pablo Pablo, Palm Beach, LeeRoy Donily is back to the food he loves: modern international fusion dishes, quality ingredients in interesting combinations. Hank sits in a quiet space at the back of Broadbeach Square, but we doubt it will be quiet for long. Newly renovated, it’s a sophisticated modern dining room, uncluttered enough to highlight the copper cylinder light over the bar and a large peg-woven name on a sidewall.

Without the distraction of a passing parade, all eyes are on the food. We took the edge off our hunger with Organic Sourdough from Burleigh Baker ($8), served with truffle butter and olives to share. In the briefest nod to 70s cuisine (so oblique that it may be missed), the breaded green olives are filled with fondue ($8). Look further and the influence of East and West are seen, a confluence of delicate flavours and time-consuming techniques evident throughout the menu.

There’s plenty of fare for the adventurous gourmand: Crispy Pigs’ Ears with smoked apple and witlof ($14), Smoked Bone Marrow with mushrooms on toast ($8) to name a couple.

Not so brave? There are lots of more mainstream choices: Duck Breast with honey anise carrots, orange and witlof ($28) and Chargrilled Lamb Ribs with salsa verde ($18).

Our Chargrilled Octopus, tender from 12 hours in the sous-vide, served with chorizo, confit lemon potatoes and salsa verde ($18) was delicious, as were the perfectly cooked Scallops served with delicately smoky black pudding, cauli purée and sherry raisins ($21).

But our hero dish was the Gnocchi. Pan-seared, it was perfect to the bite, served with rich pumpkin purée, the intense flavour of confit shameji mushrooms accented by capers, pine nuts and sweet bursts of raisin ($24) a delightful surprise. This is the dish we’d go back for time and again, a masterpiece by Sous Chef Chris!

 

For those dining in a group, one of three large plate dishes could provide more substantial share dining (500g slow-roasted pork belly, char-grilled chicken, or 1kg pasture fed rump – $29 – $70).

Well informed about the menu and happy to give advice and recommendations, staff are unpretentious and relaxed.

Hank brings a new take to modern classic dining; a sophisticated journey in less familiar territory without taking us completely out of our comfort zone.

 

 

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