Life is What You Make It. And so is a Surf

OK, it’s crowded, and you are kidding? How many people are out there? It is funny; sometimes you have a pan of dirt, but if you are patient you can find the little nugget of gold. Life is what you make of it.

Surfing the ’superwank’as I call it, is often an exercise in frustration and futility, battling with 300 or more people to get the wave you want. This afternoon, I decided I would go deal with the crowd, and get a wave, as it was the only place with a surfable wave . I decided to go out and just see what happens and if I got one, just one, I would be happy.

I parked and decided I was out there now, I won’t look, I’ll just get wet. The problem was 500 other people had a similar idea. There it was, pumping, but wow, it was like ants on a jar of open honey, and everyone was diving in for a sweet taste.

So out I went, sitting shoulder to shoulder with hundreds, observing the scene go by. I did have a little giggle to myself when Tyler Wright (WCT ripper chick) was tearing the bag out of it, and I said to the guy next to me, “I bet a lot of guys would like to surf like a chick”.

With low expectations, I sat there chilling, waiting, and waiting. I looked down at my ankle, and saw my leg rope and thought, it doesn’t look right. It wasn’t, my leggie had self-destructed during the paddle out, and there was no repairing it. That morning I copped a couple of lickings at Burleigh, and it was still attached then. It’s a good thing the swim in is easier here.

Resigned to my fate, I just went about it, and guess what? A bomb presented itself to me, and no one was inside. I will not go into detail, but it was the best wave I had caught in at least six months. I got kegged however, and by the time I got to the middle of Cooly, it was over, and I was spent. I would have sunk, with my rubber legs and burning lungs, at the end if my board was gone.

I went back to my car, and I should have stopped, but surfing is seriously addictive. I had to go back out. The thing was I was already satisfied, but I still needed more. I didn’t get any more waves like my first one, but you could not wipe the smile off my face.

What does this all mean? In the end, I set my expectations low and overachieved. When it comes down to it, you do not need to get every wave to have a good time. As crowded as the beaches can get, keep a smile, and maybe, just maybe, you might get that little nugget of gold.

Surfing is medicine for the soul. It makes you feel good, better than any drug will. We are lucky as to experience this beautiful exchange: a coalition of humans and nature.

Did I mention there were dolphins too?

Be first to comment